Yemenite Quarter - by Miriam Kresh (Participant on Yona's Tour) I've always had a great curiosity about Yemenite Jewry; Their origins, their language and history, how the influence of their culture has permanently colored Israeli society. I didn't realize, when starting Yona's tour through the Yemenite Quarter of Tel Aviv, how many of my questions would be answered, and how much more than mere facts would be presented. History came vividly alive through Yona's explanations. I understood much better how strategic the ground was and how important to the outcome of the struggle for Indepedence. Stories of how the Jews left Yemen, often on foot or on donkeyback, making their way to the land of Israel. Yona has an album of photographs garnered from the inhabitants of the Quarter, so we could see how the families evolved and changed as they settled here. The very people passing our small group became part of the story Yona wove as we wandered down cobblestone streets enchantingly accented with pots of flowering plants. Here a discreet middle-aged man greeted Yona : he had grown up on the spot we were standing and had told her dozens of family stories going back to the war of Independence and before. There a lady stood at her gate to receive a copy of a photograph from Yona. It was a photo of the lady's late father at age 100, robed in white and sporting the white turban of a Yemenite elder. He had still been energetic enough to cast an appreciative eye over our youthful tour guide, it seems. Small, intimate synagogues on every street; a house that was once a cheder where the small boys spent all day under the tutelage of a teacher who wouldn't hesitate to smack their hands with a ruler. Where the matzah bakery was, and the chicken factory. Every alleyway and small shop with its history and colorful inhabitants ; And Yona told us everything about them. Our walk culminated in a small family-run restaurant that Yona had arranged to open only for us. Long tables were set up right on the street so we could catch the evening breeze as we feasted. There were two kinds of gently-spiced kebab, generous plates of chumous, tomato puree and parsleyed techinah and of course pittah, both the round kind and long, flatter ones.The plates kept coming: French fries, fiery s'chug relish, more fresh salads than we could count, rice and beans Yemenite style. Dessert was chocolate mousse and two kinds of light, cold, flan-like Yemenite desserts, one of which was perfumed with rose water. Hot, fragrant coffee and minty tea came last. The meal was kosher and there were enough of non-meat dishes to make the vegetarian among us more than happy. The hostess, together with her grand-daughter, served us like true Yiddishe Mamas - "Who wants more kebab? Why aren't you eating the choumous? I'll wrap up the leftovers for you to take home!" It was night when we finished dinner. By then we tourists and Yona had exchanged views, told a lot of stories, made a few puns, and were comfortable with one another. The civilizing influence of a good dinner under the stars, I think. Our tour continued with a brief walk through the closed spice market, also part of the Yemenite "village" inside of Tel Aviv. Although the stands were closed and the shuk eerily deserted, smells of cumin, tumeric and fenugreek still pierced the dark. Then, a surprise : around the corner, a little neighborhood Karaoke. The owner of a tiny cafe had set up tables on the street in front and had roped the area off with a string of colored fairy lights. Friends and neighbors sat there in the half-dark, drinking beer and singing nostalgic popular songs with the guy at the mike. They looked peaceful after their day's work, just relaxing together and singing. I was too shy to join them, but I was tempted. To finish, Yona opened her very lovely apartment to us, offering fresh, halved figs with icy Arak poured over them. Very light and delicious, an unusual treat. A little more general conversation, and we parted to wend our ways home. We had spent about four hours together. If it's not obvious, I enjoyed this event enormously and can't recommend Yona's tour too highly.
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